SKIN TLC
When it comes to skincare, it can get very overwhelming with the different routines, products, rules, guidelines, and information being constantly fed to us through the internet as well as family and friends. How often do I do my routine? What is toner, and do I need it? How important is sunscreen? Do you love this sh*t? Are you high right now? Do you ever get nervous? Fear not! As an esthetician in training, I am here to share with you the truth behind the madness.
To treat your skin from any problems or concerns you may be worried about, you must first determine your skin type. Most people can tell how their skin reacts on the daily from quick observations, but to be precise, you must wash your face ONLY, pat dry, then note how your skin feels about 30 minutes afterwards. Is your skin super tight or flakey? You may be dry or dehydrated. Do you see a shine? You will be considered an oily skin type. If your skin is inflamed, red, or hurts to touch after, you have sensitive skin. Acneic skin can be prone to breakouts. To not feel a huge difference after washing your face would consider your skin type as normal. Any mix of the two, such as any oily t-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) with dry cheeks, or vice versa, would be a combination skin type. By knowing your skin type, it makes it easier to target and combat skin problems such as acne, oversized pores, eczema, hyperpigmentation, you name it, without creating more issues in the skin.
In order to have an effective skin care routine, each skin type must have, at the very least, a corresponding cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and SPF, also known as sunscreen. Each routine is to be done twice daily, once in the morning and once in the evening before going to bed. The purpose of the routine is to cleanse the skin from daily debris you may encounter through the day such as pollutants, dirt, makeup, sweat, and dead skin while keeping your skin’s natural pH balanced, as well as keeping your skin hydrated and protected from the sun and debris. Sure, you may know some people that have a 50 step skin care routine, but these four steps are the most crucial to see a difference in your skin’s concerns. Once you become more knowledgeable about what works and doesn’t work for your skin, you can then start customizing and adding steps such as serums and eye creams.
To determine whether your skin routine is working efficiently, take a picture prior to starting your new routine in natural sunlight and no filter, then be CONSISTENT, as in doing your full routine EVERYDAY in the morning and evening for two weeks, then take another picture on day 14. Do you see a noticeable difference? Your skin may have not done a complete 180, but it should have at least done a 45! If you do see a change, continue for the month to keep seeing improvement, and learn about more products corresponding to your skin’s type and concerns. My first complete beginner skin care routine began at the end of 2018 and made a huge noticeable difference on my skin’s texture within those short two weeks. After a month, my skin was completely clear of my tiny skin colored bumps, also known as pustules, and from then I built up and on moving to acne scars, oversized pores, and flaky skin. These skin conditions can take a huge toll on a person’s confidence and how they view themselves, and I’m here to tell you that you’re not alone. You must be consistent, it’s the most important step to seeing change.
Choosing a cleanser is like choosing a hairstyle, there are so many options.
When choosing a cleanser, the make-up of the cleaner will make a huge difference concerning your skin . A foaming cleanser would benefit oily skin, as it controls the skin’s sebum level, while cream cleansers help to hydrate one’s skin. Skin cleanser textures sure as milks and balms also help provide moisture for the skin, suitable for normal, dry, sensitive and flaky skin types. As a fellow combination girl, I benefit from cleansers that go from cream to foam, attacking both my dry and oily parts. The ingredients in the cleanser also play a huge role when targeting skin concerns.
Some brands may try to pull you in with the words such as “natural”, “sustainable”, “cruelty-free”, “vegan” when the truth is, natural ingredients are more likely to cause allergic reactions than synthetic (meaning man made, as opposed to fake). They often have less studies proving their efficacy to pioneer ingredients such as salicylic acid, Retin-A, benzoyl peroxide, and chemical sunscreens. A lot of synthetic ingredients are already found in our skin as well, such as hyaluronic acid, azelaic acid, and lactic acid. The word natural is a marketing technique, to convince you they are better for your skin and that synthetic ingredients are harmful, which is not the case. Because everything in the world is chemical, natural ingredients are here to make the consumer feel like their choices are better for their well being. You breathe chemicals (oxygen), wash your body, hair, teeth, skin, clothes, and dishes in chemicals (H2O). With that being said, do NOT continue to use lemon, tea tree oil, apple cider vinegar on your face, as they are too acidic. Shea butter and coconut oil also can and will clog your pores.
Acne is one of the most common skin problems, and ingredients such as salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide help combat it. Benzoyl peroxide helps kill the bacteria that cause acne, helps remove excess oil from skin, and removes dead skin cells. Salicylic acid helps prevent clogged pores, which also helps improve the look of oversized pores, and helps to dry out acne. Finding these ingredients in the form of a cleanser most suitable for your skin can help your skin’s texture tremendously, removing acne and texture from the face. All skin types, especially dry or flakey, also benefit from hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, to help the skin's surface attract more water. It helps plump the skin and get rid of fine lines and wrinkles.
Niacinamide and azelaic acid help improve the look of acne, post-acne redness, and hyperpigmentation. Majority of these ingredients are chemically exfoliating, which helps the skin get rid of dead skin cells and give a softer, smoother look. A good brand for cleaners containing these ingredients is CeraVe, as they are dermatologist recommended and beginner friendly. They also have a wide variety of different products to choose from. Once choosing your perfect cleanser, wet your face and with clean heads, massage the cleanser into your skin in circular motions for 60 seconds, then rinse and pat dry. It helps the cleanser’s active ingredients actually penetrate the skin, soften the skin, and dissolve skin blockages such as sebum, makeup, dirt and oil. Physical exfoliators such as face brushes or washcloths harbor bacteria and create micro-tears on the face, which are why they are not recommended to cleanse with.
The skin’s natural pH level ranges from 4.5-5.5, and using different chemicals on your skin can naturally unbalance it, which is where toner comes in. Toner brings the skin’s pH back to normal. It has a watery consistency and helps the skin’s absorption. Most people use witch hazel for toner, which is not good for the skin. Although a ton of people opt for witch hazel due to oil control, it does not help with the skin’s health. Witch hazel contains alcohol, which is drying for the skin. It also contains tannins, which strips away debris, oils, dirt, and makeup off the surface. Although it sounds good in theory, the stripping of important oils makes the skin produce more oils and makes skin more acne prone, which never solves the problem. The skin needs to be hydrated, which is where hydrating toner comes in. A good hydrating toner contains humectants (ingredients that bind water into the skin, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, sodium PCA, and aloe) and water. It ensures the removal of all dirt, debris, and makeup while keeping your skin’s natural oils in tact. It will increase the absorption of all products after toning, like your moisturizer and SPF.. A good, beginner friendly toner would be the Heritage Store Rosewater Toner. It’s very affordable, and rosewater stabilizes the skin’s pH naturally even before being put into a toner. It also has calming abilities which makes it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive. The formula contains many humectants, and can be found everywhere including grocery stores and high end stores. My acneic friends, PCA’s Hydrating contains arnica, which is a flower that helps reduce inflammation. For those struggling with hyperpigmentation, Eminence Organics Stone Crop Hydrating Mist targets hyperpigmentation while still being great in hydration. Toning should be done after cleansing by pressing it into your skin with your hands or taking a cotton ball or pad and spreading it across the face. Do not rinse. As your skin routine becomes more advanced and personal, it should be done after every step (cleanse, tone, exfoliate, tone, mask, tone, serum, tone, moisturize, SPF in the morning and oil at night).
Moisturizers can have ingredients similar to cleansers, where they are suited for certain skin types. When it comes to a moisturizer, choosing one that best suits comes down to the consistency and ingredients can make or break your routine. Moisturizer seals in your past steps and hydrates your skin, For dry or flaky skin, finding thicker consistencies with ingredients such as humectants keep the skin hydrated and attracts water to the surface. Thinner moisturizers sucks as creams are good for basic hydration, which benefits those with normal skin. Oilier skin and acneic types are looking for moisturizers with alpha hydroxy acids, which combats sebum. All skin types, but sensitive skin the most, need to look for products that are non comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog pores. Antioxidants are helpful breaking down free radicals, or molecules that break down cells, and are great in any moisturizer. Be wary of moisturizers that contain colors and fragrance, as they can be irritable to skin. Massage your moisturizer into your skin with clean hands.
Say it with me, everybody of all skin types and all skin tones: SUNSCREEN IS VITAL. I NEED TO WEAR SUNSCREEN EVERYDAY. NO SKIN ROUTINE IS COMPLETE WITHOUT SUNSCREEN. Due to contrary beliefs, darker skin tones need sunscreen too! While darker tones may be less prone to sunburn due to our melanin (pigment), UVA and UVB rays are the number one reason for premature aging and wrinkling within everyone, and makes the skin more prone to skin cancer. Sunscreen also does not reduce your chances of getting a tan. You do this step after moisturizing, and only apply it to your face during the daytime. Good sunscreen has an SPF (Sun Protection Factor, a measurement of how well a sunscreen will protect your skin) that starts around 30, which blocks 97% of UVB rays and up. Sunscreen must be applied every couple of hours when in direct sunlight, when spending time indoors, it is not as urgent. When looking for a sunscreen, find one that protects from both UVA and UVB rays. Most people don’t find sunscreen appealing due to the white cast that a lot of formulas leave,but brands such as Black Girl Sunscreen and Supergoop are affordable and white cast-free, protecting from all rays. Apply sunscreen to your face with clean hands and massage in.
Some of the products you use when first forming your skin routine become staples as you become more knowledgeable with your skin type and issues become permanent staples. While some of my products have changed as I gained more information, my toner hasn’t failed me even two years later. Consistency, trial and error, and knowledge gets you to your goal of both clear and healthy skin. If in need of more assistance, finding an esthetician could help diagnose skin conditions, treating them with facials, and giving product recommendations.
I hope this breakdown helped! For more tips and suggestions, follow estheticians such as @Labeautyologist, who created the 60 rule (and saved my skin two years ago) and @Makeupforwoc on Twitter and Instagram, as they share a ton of good skin care maintenance daily. For skin care assessments, analyzations, or inquiries, I can be contacted at theedasiaview@gmail.com. To love the skin you’re skin starts with you showing love to your skin. Stay happy, healthy, hydrated, moisturized, and don’t you dare forget that SPF.
